L'Encrier

I have been bothering boyfriend for a long time about going to l'encrier.

It is on the rue Traversiere, which seems to be directly between the homestead and everywhere else in the city. Every time we walk past I spy the plates of food and smiling laughing customers and I say to him "Gosh, doesn't that look nice?"

Boyfriend will usually grunt and change the subject.

This evening boyfriend was home early from work so we decided to celebrate. Our original plan was "the little gastronomic restaurant where nobody ever goes" I did not have high hopes, despite my pleas for La Gazzetta, where I have been dying to go, I acquiesced as it is just round the corner. We wandered in at half ten and were greeted frostily; kitchen closed, bugger off.

Then I remembered l'Encrier. Just the other side of the viaduct, what had always appeared a little pocket of inaccessible warmth was about to become a reality.

Open the door of L'Encrier and you'll be greeted with a smile, great smells, a hubbub of contented chatter and the sight of the chefs all pottering away in the open kitchen. It was every bit as gorgeous as I had imagined, only with the added bonus of exposed beams making me feel like I was in the countryside.

It is kind of like having dinner at a friend's house. The staff are relaxed and friendly, and sat down to dine and chat at the next table towards the end of the evening.

We ordered the menu suggestion (33euros for 3 courses and cheese). I went for their duo of salmon to start, and boyfriend had the foie gras. Mine was light and simple. His was absolute knock you out flavour heaven, and came with the most delicious orange and cinnamon chutney. I need that recipe.

The food came, simply presented and in generous portions. Exactly how I like it; honest, unpretentious and absolutely delicious. I get so annoyed with finicky little half-platefuls...

Perhaps because of the lateness of the hour, our mains arrived almost straight away. I went for the St Jacques Provencales, and boyfriend had (surprise surprise) the beef with morel cream. I need to do a little shout out to the chef here, because everything was perfectly cooked. I mean perfectly. My scallops were crispy outside and jelly-quivering within, and boyfriend's beef was a whole new shade of blue.

Cheese came, and it was generous, simple and delicious. We then attempted to take on a mango sorbet but were too stuffed and too happy to give it a proper go.

No pretence here, just good food and a friendly human warmth. I'll be going back.

UPDATE: The other day I walked past and saw Louis Garrel hanging out in front of the restaurant; praise indeed.

L'encrier
55 Rue Traversière
Paris
75012

open monday to friday 12-2.30
monday to saturday 7.30-11.00